The Arennes de Lutece

Start the day with your choice of markets. . either the permanent market street along the Rue Mouffetard, (Metro: Monge) or the charming, small but high-quality marche volant which sets up a few blocks away from rue Mouffetard in the pretty, leafy Place Monge, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. (Metro: Monge) (Remember, the street-markets close by 1:30 and are always closed on Mondays.) Of the two, the daily and more extensive rue Mouffetard market street will take more time (allow at least an hour for browsing).

At either of these markets, you could assemble a delicious picnic if you are not planning to have lunch at the Mosquee de Paris. Then walk to the Arennes de Lutece, just off rue Monge. This is the only roman amphitheatre in and around Paris, now incorporated into a pleasant park. Stop for a few moments to relax and experience this ancient site. If you have opted to pick up a picnic, enjoy it here. Next, leave the Arennes de Lutece, and walk the few blocks to the Mosquee de Paris. You may opt to have delicious couscous or a tagine for lunch in the Mosque’s outdoor or indoor tiled dining areas, or simply enjoy a mint tea outside in the garden. Please note. The Mosquee offers massage and steam baths to men and women (never together) on different days of the week. Always check the most current schedules! And remember, this is not an elegant spa, but an authentic ‘hammam’ where observant muslims and others are both welcome to bathe and partake of the services.

Note Following lunch, you have several great choices. An enjoyable few hours can be spent at the recently renovated Natural History Museum with its beautiful Grande Gallerie d’Evolution, just a few short blocks from the Mosquee. This museum is an utter delight for adults and children both. In warmer months, explore the extensive Botanical Gardens just adjacent to the Natural History Museum. Nearest metro: Censier Daubenton.

Or, if you would prefer to continue the roman Paris theme, walk back to rue Monge and take the Metro, bus, or walk, back into the Latin Quarter to the Musee Cluny (metro: Cluny Sorbonne) the national museum of the middle ages, housed in an historic ‘hotel’ (mansion) that sits atop the remains of roman thermes, (baths). The Cluny is easily visited in an hour or two, its treasures include the magnificent Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, mideaval stained glass (including panels from St. Chapelle) and fine examples of the religious art of the period.
NB. If you enjoy early music, check the schedule of concerts offered within the stunning space of the ancient thermes… the music and the site can’t be beat.

After your visit to the Cluny, exit the front door, walk by the park and the famed Brasserie Balzar and take rue St. Jacques up the hill towards the Pantheon. Turn left on rue Sufflot, continuing the block or so towards the Pantheon. Just off to the side of the Pantheon, the renaissance era St. Etienne du Mont is well worth a visit. The interior of the church is light, featuring beautiful carved pulpits and stunning, matching curved, carved stone staircases framing the altar. Walk back into the chapel area behind the main church to see the lovely allegorical stained glass panels.
When you are ready to leave St. Etienne, walk back towards rue Sufflot. Pause for a few moments on the front steps of the Pantheon. The view from this imposing structure out over the Luxembourg Gardens and St. Germain des Pres towards the Eiffel Tower is wonderful. A walk down to the Luxembourg Gardens to relax or explore this lovely park is a good way to cap the day’s explorations. There are several good options for a drink or coffee along rue Sufflot. Or, pause for a coffee and pastry at the lovely café and tearooms of Dalloyau on Place Edmund Rostand just across the Boulevard St. Michel and across the street from the Luxembourg Gardens

Renaissance Interior St. Etienne du Mont